By Published: July 19, 2024

With the 2024 Olympics set to open, 兔子先生传媒文化作品 professor Aimee Kilbane ponders Americans鈥 long love affair with the City of Light


Among all cities on earth, Paris must surely be counted among the most storied, the most romanticized and the most infused with literary, artistic, historical and cultural meaning.

Consider just a handful of associations with the City of Light, as the capital of love, art and the avant garde. It brought us Impressionism, the Belle Epoque and la vie de boh猫me, and it served as the stomping grounds for uncountable expatriates, including the 鈥淟ost Generation.鈥

The mystique of France鈥檚 ancient capital has long drawn tourists from around the world in search of their own unique experiences. With the opening of the XXXIII Olympiad, aka Paris 2024, on July 26, countless thousands of visitors old and new are expected to pour into the city and its environs, including many Americans, who鈥檝e had a long fascination with the city.

Aimee Kilbane

Aimee Kilbane, an assistant teaching professor of French at the University of Colorado Boulder, first went to Paris as a third-year undergraduate and over the past quarter century has returned for frequent visits and residencies.

鈥淥ne practical reason Americans fall in love with Paris so easily is that it鈥檚 such an accessible, walkable city. You get your bearings more quickly than in London or elsewhere in Europe,鈥 says Aimee Kilbane, assistant teaching professor of French at the University of Colorado Boulder.

At the same time, she says, 鈥渋t鈥檚 a beautiful city, with no end to its layers. A familiar refrain is that you can never fully know Paris, but that doesn鈥檛 stop people from trying.鈥

Romantic Paris

Kilbane first went to Paris as a third-year undergraduate and over the past quarter century has returned for frequent visits and residencies. With an academic focus on the tourists, expatriates and subcultures of Paris, she teaches a course on Modern Paris and has served as tour guide to dozens of students abroad.

The romantic Paris of the American imagination is only a recent addition to millennia of history. The city鈥檚 ancient roots fascinate many visitors from the still-wet-behind-the-ears United States. What we now know as Paris was founded by the Parisii, a Celtic tribe, on an island in the middle of the Seine River around 250 BCE.

鈥淲alking through the city is like walking through history, no matter what you鈥檙e interested in鈥 the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, the 19th-century. There are traces of Roman, and even pre-Roman, Paris everywhere,鈥 Kilbane says.

Kilbane enjoys taking students to see the largely intact Ar猫nes de Lut猫ce, a 1st-century Roman theater and amphitheater unearthed and excavated in the 1860s.

鈥淓very time they build an underground parking structure, extend a metro line or widen a boulevard, they find remnants of Paris鈥 buried past,鈥 she says.

Kilbane also teaches a , to explore the city鈥檚 literal and figurative 鈥渦ndergrounds.鈥 The literal includes its famous, eerie catacombs, Metro rail system, sewers and the depths of the Louvre art museum; the figurative encompasses cutting-edge art and cultural movements past and present and discarded or 鈥渂uried鈥 histories such as the stories of immigrants and their influence on the city.

Above ground, the medieval cathedral Notre Dame de Paris, built in the 12th century, looms large in the city鈥檚 history, landscape and, thanks to Victor Hugo鈥檚 novel The Hunchback of Notre Dame, literary heritage.

鈥淚t鈥檚 a magnificent piece of architecture, with massive Gothic towers that lend a sense of permanence as they watch over this ancient and modern city, almost as a surveyor or protector,鈥 Kilbane says. 鈥淚t鈥檚 magical and majestic, but it鈥檚 also a nearly 1,000-year-old marvel of engineering that defies gravity.鈥

Notre Dame cathedral

Notre-Dame de Paris cathedral, seen in October 2017. (Photo: Ali Sabbagh/Wikimedia Commons)

On the other end of the architectural spectrum is a landmark that has, over time, supplanted Notre Dame as the most visible symbol of the city: the Eiffel Tower, built as a centerpiece for the 1889 World鈥檚 Fair.

鈥淚t鈥檚 another kind of tower, not as solemn, its presence feels less eternal. I suppose some find it elegant,鈥 Kilbane notes wryly, 鈥渂ut I could not give a good answer as to why or how it鈥檚 become the symbol of Paris.鈥

(She鈥檚 not the only one who鈥檚 been less than impressed: When asked why he so often frequented the tower, 19th-century British author, poet and artist William Morris replied, 鈥淭his is the only place in the city where I can look out and avoid seeing this hideous thing.鈥)

A crossroads for artists and thinkers

Medieval Paris was an influential center of theology and scholarship as far back as the 13th century, thanks to the establishment of the Sorbonne, one of Europe鈥檚 oldest universities. The 19th-century cemented Paris鈥 reputation as an artist鈥檚 paradise, with its influential 脡cole des Beaux-Arts. Impressionism, considered by many the zenith of 1800s European art, began as a rebellion against the rules and strictures of the day, and Paris has long been a crossroads for artists and thinkers who push boundaries.

Many Americans first encounter the city through the written word, particularly the famous Lost Generation鈥擜merican writers who made pilgrimage to the city in the 1920s, including Ernest Hemingway, Gertrude Stein and F. Scott Fitzgerald. Paris also drew Beat hero Jack Kerouac and some of the greatest African American artists, performers and writers of the 20th century, including Langston Hughes, Josephine Baker and James Baldwin.

鈥淧aris was the place to go study to be an artist in the 1800s,鈥 Kilbane says. 鈥淚n the 20th century, it became the destination of choice for would-be writers and other exiles seeking more creative freedom than they knew at home.鈥

Luxembourg Gardens in paris

The Luxembourg Gardens and Luxembourg Palace in Paris. (Photo: Rdevany/Wikimedia Commons)

The city has deeply influenced film, as well. Paris has played a starring role in American cinema: musicals like Funny Face and An American in Paris helped renew American tourism in Paris after World War II, and more recent films like Richard Linklater鈥檚 Before Sunset and Woody Allen鈥檚 Midnight in Paris continue to revisit the romantic myth of the young, contemplative American writer abroad.

鈥淗emingway provided the blueprint for Americans with artistic ambitions in Paris,鈥 Kilbane says. 鈥Midnight in Paris comes directly from A Moveable Feast.鈥

Literary-minded visitors still visit landmarks of Hemingway鈥檚 Paris, such as the Luxembourg Gardens, the caf茅s he made famous and the bookstalls along the Seine. And no trip to Paris would be complete without stepping inside Shakespeare and Company. Established by American Sylvia Beach in 1922 as an English-language lending library that would be instrumental to the anglophone expatriate community and modernist literature, it published the first edition of James Joyce鈥檚 Ulysses, sold Hemingway鈥檚 first collection of poems and is still going strong.

Contemporary Paris has a vibrant music scene, infused with world influences, and is a leader in green innovation and livable-city sensibilities, Kilbane says.

She likes to take students to Batignolles, a neighborhood less frequented by tourists that combines old and new Paris. Parc Clichy-Batignolles - Martin Luther King, completed in 2021, is a green space built between towering high rises, adjacent to a 19th-century park and village once frequented by impressionist painters.

鈥淟es Batignolles is really a unique spot in Paris鈥攊t has a great old-Paris, sleepy village feel while being young and animated,鈥 Kilbane says. 鈥淢eanwhile, the new park looks nothing like the rest of Paris鈥攊t combines wild vegetation and community gardens with 21st-century architecture.

鈥淧aris has been unfavorably compared to a museum. That is to say, the past is enshrined and fetishized to the extent that the vibrancy of contemporary Paris is obscured. But it really is a living city that is able to adapt and reinvent.鈥

Or as Hemingway wrote in A Moveable Feast, 鈥淭here is never any ending to Paris鈥.鈥


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